So, my mother brought a puppy for Christmas. As the holiday season winds to a close, it is time to start seriously considering dog training for that little, lovable bundle of fur.
There are so much things you need to understand about dog training. I found this on the web:
- Don't look on potty training puppies as the unpleasant or messy side of owning a puppy. Rather see it as the first stage of a bonding process. One that will result in a happy and healthy relationship. That is the real reward of house training a dog.
- Start potty training as soon as you get your puppy home. But remember they don't yet have full control of their bladder and bowel functions.
Feeding should take place at the same times every day. Do not feed with four hours of bedtime and withdraw the water bowl two hours before bedtime. A routine is essential. That means you too have to stick to a routine by getting up and going to bed at the same time every day.
- Do not play with them until they have eliminated.
- Simply taking your dog out in the backyard a few times every day is not the way to potty train a puppy. After all, how do they know what they are being taken outside for?
- Features your dog potty must have: It should be easy to clean. Have a splash back. Have a post for him to aim at. Be big enough for when he grows up.
- For indoor use, it's much cheaper to use newspaper under the grill of a dog potty than any of the pad, gel or litter type products.
- Restrict his access to the house until he's house trained. A small room with an easy to clean floor and a baby gate is ideal.
- Puppies get accustomed to the surface they eliminate on. So don't change this until he's fully house trained.
- The paper training method is the best technique if your puppy has to relieve itself indoors. It works even better when you use an indoor potty instead of paper.
- Nature's miracle stain and odor remover is great for cleaning up and eliminating the puppy's scent.
- Thoroughly clean up and deodorize anywhere there are any accidents. Otherwise he will eliminate there again.
- Feed your puppy and play with him anywhere he has had any accidents. This will help prevent him eliminating in the same spot again.
- Everyone involved must use the same training methods or it will confuse your puppy and it will take longer to house break him.
- Give your puppy frequent attention during this critical period. If you find he's having too many accidents, it probably means you are leaving him unattended for too long at a time.
Do not build up more stress by scolding--that just makes things worse. Again, work on teaching simple obedience and building the teacher-learner relationship. Puppies need a calm, dependable master.
Don't Let Your Dog Die Young! Click Here!
9/16/08
Commercial Dog Food is Killing Your Dog!
You're about to discover the terrifying-truth about commercial dog food that is linked to the deaths of thousands of dogs across the US every single day.
Many world-famous Doctors of Veterinary Medicine and published Dog Care Experts universally agree any dog that eats commercial dog food is at a much higher risk of dying prematurely and by the time symptoms are noticeable, it's often too late to prevent an agonizing death except by lethal injection.
See their shocking, research-supported claims in this report.
!Click Here!
Many world-famous Doctors of Veterinary Medicine and published Dog Care Experts universally agree any dog that eats commercial dog food is at a much higher risk of dying prematurely and by the time symptoms are noticeable, it's often too late to prevent an agonizing death except by lethal injection.
See their shocking, research-supported claims in this report.
!Click Here!
9/10/08
A few simple ideas can make a big difference to how successful your puppy potty training will be.
#1. Features your dog potty must have: It should be easy to clean. Have a splash back. Have a post for him to aim at. Be big enough for when he grows up.
#2. For indoor use, it's much cheaper to use newspaper under the grill of a dog potty than any of the pad, gel or litter type products.
#3. Restrict his access to the house until he's house trained. A small room with an easy to clean floor and a baby gate is ideal.
#4. Puppies get accustomed to the surface they eliminate on. So don't change this until he's fully house trained.
#5. The paper training method is the best technique if your puppy has to relieve itself indoors. It works even better when you use an indoor potty instead of paper.
src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js">
#6. Nature's miracle stain and odor remover is great for cleaning up and eliminating the puppy's scent. It's available from Amazon.
#7. Thoroughly clean up and deodorize anywhere there are any accidents. Otherwise he will eliminate there again.
#8. Feed your puppy and play with him anywhere he has had any accidents. This will help prevent him eliminating in the same spot again.
#9. Everyone involved must use the same training methods or it will confuse your puppy and it will take longer to house break him
#10. Give your puppy frequent attention during this critical period. If you find he's having too many accidents, it probably means you are leaving him unattended for too long at a time.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bruce_Hamilton
Dog Obedience Training Secrets to
STOP
Your Dog’s Behavior Problems! Click Here!
#2. For indoor use, it's much cheaper to use newspaper under the grill of a dog potty than any of the pad, gel or litter type products.
#3. Restrict his access to the house until he's house trained. A small room with an easy to clean floor and a baby gate is ideal.
#4. Puppies get accustomed to the surface they eliminate on. So don't change this until he's fully house trained.
#5. The paper training method is the best technique if your puppy has to relieve itself indoors. It works even better when you use an indoor potty instead of paper.
src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js">
#6. Nature's miracle stain and odor remover is great for cleaning up and eliminating the puppy's scent. It's available from Amazon.
#7. Thoroughly clean up and deodorize anywhere there are any accidents. Otherwise he will eliminate there again.
#8. Feed your puppy and play with him anywhere he has had any accidents. This will help prevent him eliminating in the same spot again.
#9. Everyone involved must use the same training methods or it will confuse your puppy and it will take longer to house break him
#10. Give your puppy frequent attention during this critical period. If you find he's having too many accidents, it probably means you are leaving him unattended for too long at a time.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bruce_Hamilton
Dog Obedience Training Secrets to
STOP
Your Dog’s Behavior Problems! Click Here!
Socializing Your Puppy Should Be at the Top of Your List When Training Your Puppy
A special benefit of socialization and one of the simplest ways to begin teaching your puppy not to bite and be so mouthy is to start socializing her with other puppies and dogs as soon as possible. In this case, socialization means playtime. Playtime means biting, mouthing, romping, tumbling and roughhousing. Puppies that have an outlet for these behaviors are less likely to use their human companions as littermate alternates.
Find a Doggy Playmate... It might take some time for your puppy to accept a new playmate and vice/versa, but be patient and generally they will become best doggy friends.
How do I find a Playmate? Enroll in a puppy training class, talk to your neighbors, take your puppy on walks around your neighborhood...
With just the opportunity to play with another dog on a regular basis, puppy biting can dramatically reduce. Socialization with other dogs plus instruction and training from you, usually stops the inappropriate biting in minimal time with minimal effort. If your puppy does not have an alternative outlet for it’s biting and mouthing, then humans, furniture, clothing, and fill-in-the-blank become the objects of the puppy’s teeth.
Socializing your puppy also helps her develop a secure and stable personality. It teaches your puppy how to behave in different situations and settings.
Socialization helps your puppy become an all around well-adjusted companion. Puppies who have not been socialized generally become fearful, skittish dogs who may be frightened and upset by everyday occurrences and unavoidable situations. They are untrustworthy and often have nervous, frenetic personalities. They tend to be biters and barkers. They often experience separation anxiety and submissively pee. Taking an un-socialized dog out in public can be a nightmare for both the dog and the owner.
Start Socializing your Puppy or Dog Now! - Don't Delay...
Whatever the age of your puppy, start now. The sooner the better - and better too late than not at all. And the longer you wait, the more likely it will be too late. The younger the puppy the easier it is and more quickly it happens. The older the dog, the more time consuming and tedious the process. Sometimes so much so that socialization is unsuccessful.
Here’s an example of a very time limited aspect of socialization. A larger breed dog while still a very young puppy is relatively easy to socialize with children. But if you wait for a couple of months, the small, fuzzy, cute, non-threatening puppy suddenly begins looking more and more like a big dog that some parents may be hesitant to allow their young children around. It’s easy to control a smaller puppy to keep him from jumping up and being too exuberant. As the puppy grows, that jumping and exuberance becomes more difficult to handle and more likely a liability and risk, hence you don’t have as many opportunities to teach your puppy to accept and enjoy children.
Puppies are very impressionable and every experience
your puppy has will usually stay with him for life.
If your puppy does not experience the vacuum cleaner, then when he meets it for the first time later on, he will most likely be aggressive towards it or fearful of it. Now just substitute the words “vacuum cleaner” for any item, object, person, situation or event: such as loud noises, baths, car rides, cats, horses, umbrellas, hats, other dogs, people in uniform, etc.
Introduce your puppy to as many different situations and items and people as possible without overwhelming her. It’s essential that her experiences are pleasant or at least neutral so that she doesn’t associate these things with anything scary or painful. Make sure any other dogs or puppies or other pets that she plays with are friendly, healthy and vaccinated.
Your responsibility is mainly to provide the opportunity for your puppy to explore and experience new things in a controlled setting with minimal interference. You may subtly encourage confident behavior with the use of treats and praise. However, do not scold or reassure any hesitant behavior. Let your puppy find out on his own that the opened umbrella sitting in the middle of the living room is not a threat. If he has already shown signs of fear of let’s say the vacuum cleaner, then leave the vacuum in the middle of the room, unplugged and with a scattering of his favorite treats around and on the vacuum itself. This may take anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks depending on your puppy’s age and previous experience. When your puppy shows no signs of fear of it, then plug it in and turn it on only briefly and at some distance away so as to not blast your unsuspecting pooch into the next room.
Remember the idea of socialization is allow your pup to accustom herself to strange and different or new things in a pleasant way and non-threatening way. If you find that the item or situation is too much for your puppy, stop the session immediately and either try again with your puppy at a greater distance from the offending stimulus or find a way to minimize the situation to a level that is not over bearing for your puppy.
Dogs have a keen ability to sense our feelings and emotions. So if you find yourself upset or nervous about a particular item or situation, your puppy will probably pick up these same feelings. If you find yourself over-whelmed, you might also want to start with a situation where you yourself are comfortable and confident.
Before taking your puppy outside to public places, make sure she is vaccinated and has your veterinarian’s approval. Make sure any animals she comes in contact with are also vaccinated and healthy. In particular you want to avoid any place where stray dogs or unhealthy, unvaccinated dogs have access.
Generally your friends and family’s homes and yards are safe, as long as stray dogs are not able to roam freely on their property. Any place that is clean and safe for you and your children would most likely be safe for your puppy. Shopping centers and storefronts are great places to meet all kinds of new things. Some businesses allow dogs on their premises, so just ask. Be sure to take your doggy-diaper bag with you to clean up any accidents or messes your puppy may create. Take treats, water, toys and any other supplies that may come in handy. When in public, always make sure you can prove her registration and vaccination status.
Dog Obedience Training Secrets to
STOP
Your Dog’s Behavior Problems!
Click Here!
Find a Doggy Playmate... It might take some time for your puppy to accept a new playmate and vice/versa, but be patient and generally they will become best doggy friends.
How do I find a Playmate? Enroll in a puppy training class, talk to your neighbors, take your puppy on walks around your neighborhood...
With just the opportunity to play with another dog on a regular basis, puppy biting can dramatically reduce. Socialization with other dogs plus instruction and training from you, usually stops the inappropriate biting in minimal time with minimal effort. If your puppy does not have an alternative outlet for it’s biting and mouthing, then humans, furniture, clothing, and fill-in-the-blank become the objects of the puppy’s teeth.
Socializing your puppy also helps her develop a secure and stable personality. It teaches your puppy how to behave in different situations and settings.
Socialization helps your puppy become an all around well-adjusted companion. Puppies who have not been socialized generally become fearful, skittish dogs who may be frightened and upset by everyday occurrences and unavoidable situations. They are untrustworthy and often have nervous, frenetic personalities. They tend to be biters and barkers. They often experience separation anxiety and submissively pee. Taking an un-socialized dog out in public can be a nightmare for both the dog and the owner.
Start Socializing your Puppy or Dog Now! - Don't Delay...
Whatever the age of your puppy, start now. The sooner the better - and better too late than not at all. And the longer you wait, the more likely it will be too late. The younger the puppy the easier it is and more quickly it happens. The older the dog, the more time consuming and tedious the process. Sometimes so much so that socialization is unsuccessful.
Here’s an example of a very time limited aspect of socialization. A larger breed dog while still a very young puppy is relatively easy to socialize with children. But if you wait for a couple of months, the small, fuzzy, cute, non-threatening puppy suddenly begins looking more and more like a big dog that some parents may be hesitant to allow their young children around. It’s easy to control a smaller puppy to keep him from jumping up and being too exuberant. As the puppy grows, that jumping and exuberance becomes more difficult to handle and more likely a liability and risk, hence you don’t have as many opportunities to teach your puppy to accept and enjoy children.
Puppies are very impressionable and every experience
your puppy has will usually stay with him for life.
If your puppy does not experience the vacuum cleaner, then when he meets it for the first time later on, he will most likely be aggressive towards it or fearful of it. Now just substitute the words “vacuum cleaner” for any item, object, person, situation or event: such as loud noises, baths, car rides, cats, horses, umbrellas, hats, other dogs, people in uniform, etc.
Introduce your puppy to as many different situations and items and people as possible without overwhelming her. It’s essential that her experiences are pleasant or at least neutral so that she doesn’t associate these things with anything scary or painful. Make sure any other dogs or puppies or other pets that she plays with are friendly, healthy and vaccinated.
Your responsibility is mainly to provide the opportunity for your puppy to explore and experience new things in a controlled setting with minimal interference. You may subtly encourage confident behavior with the use of treats and praise. However, do not scold or reassure any hesitant behavior. Let your puppy find out on his own that the opened umbrella sitting in the middle of the living room is not a threat. If he has already shown signs of fear of let’s say the vacuum cleaner, then leave the vacuum in the middle of the room, unplugged and with a scattering of his favorite treats around and on the vacuum itself. This may take anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks depending on your puppy’s age and previous experience. When your puppy shows no signs of fear of it, then plug it in and turn it on only briefly and at some distance away so as to not blast your unsuspecting pooch into the next room.
Remember the idea of socialization is allow your pup to accustom herself to strange and different or new things in a pleasant way and non-threatening way. If you find that the item or situation is too much for your puppy, stop the session immediately and either try again with your puppy at a greater distance from the offending stimulus or find a way to minimize the situation to a level that is not over bearing for your puppy.
Dogs have a keen ability to sense our feelings and emotions. So if you find yourself upset or nervous about a particular item or situation, your puppy will probably pick up these same feelings. If you find yourself over-whelmed, you might also want to start with a situation where you yourself are comfortable and confident.
Before taking your puppy outside to public places, make sure she is vaccinated and has your veterinarian’s approval. Make sure any animals she comes in contact with are also vaccinated and healthy. In particular you want to avoid any place where stray dogs or unhealthy, unvaccinated dogs have access.
Generally your friends and family’s homes and yards are safe, as long as stray dogs are not able to roam freely on their property. Any place that is clean and safe for you and your children would most likely be safe for your puppy. Shopping centers and storefronts are great places to meet all kinds of new things. Some businesses allow dogs on their premises, so just ask. Be sure to take your doggy-diaper bag with you to clean up any accidents or messes your puppy may create. Take treats, water, toys and any other supplies that may come in handy. When in public, always make sure you can prove her registration and vaccination status.
Dog Obedience Training Secrets to
STOP
Your Dog’s Behavior Problems!
Click Here!
Puppy Training Tips: Winning Your Puppy's Trust, Respect and Confidence
Many people try to win their new puppy's love by letting the puppy always have its way. The pup is showered with affection and attention because he is so cute and cuddly. Buckets of affection is a wonderful thing for most puppies, but it must be tempered with respect.
If you give in to your puppy's every whim, your pup will never learn self control and self discipline. Your puppy will never learn to respect you. If your puppy does not respect you, it will have no reason to do anything for you. Your relationship will be like two 5 year olds bossing each other around. Just as a child needs a caring parent; an athletic team needs a coach; your puppy needs a leader and a clear social hierarchy.
If you do not take up the role of leader, your dog will; and you will end up with an unruly, disobedient, out of control, often aggressive monster of a dog. Most of these dogs end up living a life of isolation in the back yard because no one can deal with it. They end up at the shelter because either the owner can't live with the dog anymore, or a member of the public has filed a complaint against the dog and government officials have taken the dog away from the owner. DON'T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU AND YOUR DOG!
Other people have an equally erroneous misconception of this issue. Instead of showering the dog with love and affection, they think that to earn the dog's respect they must bully, dominate and terrorize the dog into being submissive. A dog treated this way will eventually bite their owner. This is not respect. Respect is not something that is forced. It is won. A dog will not respect someone it does not trust. The old fashioned method of dominance via the alpha roll over does not win respect.
You can win your puppy's trust and respect by asking for simple compliance to basic training commands and through handling and gentling exercises. Of utmost importance, these routines must be predictable as anticipated by your puppy.
For instance:
* Ask your puppy to sit before getting a dog treat or sit before leaving the house to go for a walk. Follow-up by placing your puppy in a sit using your hands if your puppy doesn't comply (no doggy treat of course, if you have to do all the work! But you must still praise your puppy). Pretty soon your puppy will learn the routine and be more than happy to comply, and all the while you are building a relationship of consistency, love, trust and respect. You've got the idea? - expand on it...
* Using your hands, place your puppy in a down and then "examine" your puppy by touching ears, teeth, tail, etc. Let your puppy know this is a fun thing by praising your puppy while you are handling her. An occassional doggy treat while you are handling your puppy should accellerate your puppy's acceptance of being touched and handled. Of course, any biting while handling should receive a resounding "NO" or "Ouch" in a load voice. When the biting stops, tell your puppy what a good girl she is... profusely!
Dog Obedience Training Secrets to
STOP
Your Dog’s Behavior Problems! Click Here!
If you give in to your puppy's every whim, your pup will never learn self control and self discipline. Your puppy will never learn to respect you. If your puppy does not respect you, it will have no reason to do anything for you. Your relationship will be like two 5 year olds bossing each other around. Just as a child needs a caring parent; an athletic team needs a coach; your puppy needs a leader and a clear social hierarchy.
If you do not take up the role of leader, your dog will; and you will end up with an unruly, disobedient, out of control, often aggressive monster of a dog. Most of these dogs end up living a life of isolation in the back yard because no one can deal with it. They end up at the shelter because either the owner can't live with the dog anymore, or a member of the public has filed a complaint against the dog and government officials have taken the dog away from the owner. DON'T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU AND YOUR DOG!
Other people have an equally erroneous misconception of this issue. Instead of showering the dog with love and affection, they think that to earn the dog's respect they must bully, dominate and terrorize the dog into being submissive. A dog treated this way will eventually bite their owner. This is not respect. Respect is not something that is forced. It is won. A dog will not respect someone it does not trust. The old fashioned method of dominance via the alpha roll over does not win respect.
You can win your puppy's trust and respect by asking for simple compliance to basic training commands and through handling and gentling exercises. Of utmost importance, these routines must be predictable as anticipated by your puppy.
For instance:
* Ask your puppy to sit before getting a dog treat or sit before leaving the house to go for a walk. Follow-up by placing your puppy in a sit using your hands if your puppy doesn't comply (no doggy treat of course, if you have to do all the work! But you must still praise your puppy). Pretty soon your puppy will learn the routine and be more than happy to comply, and all the while you are building a relationship of consistency, love, trust and respect. You've got the idea? - expand on it...
* Using your hands, place your puppy in a down and then "examine" your puppy by touching ears, teeth, tail, etc. Let your puppy know this is a fun thing by praising your puppy while you are handling her. An occassional doggy treat while you are handling your puppy should accellerate your puppy's acceptance of being touched and handled. Of course, any biting while handling should receive a resounding "NO" or "Ouch" in a load voice. When the biting stops, tell your puppy what a good girl she is... profusely!
Dog Obedience Training Secrets to
STOP
Your Dog’s Behavior Problems! Click Here!
Training Your Puppy or Dog About Biting
Biting is most common in young puppies and new dogs
Especially in play and while teething. It's up to you to teach your puppy or dog what is acceptable and what is not. Most dogs and puppies are generally loving, sweet, adorable, affectionate and wonderful 99% of the time. Only 1% of the time does something specific happen that makes the dog bite. This article will discuss the causes of biting and what you can do to prevent your dog from biting.
Dogs and Puppies Must Learn to Inhibit Biting
First of all, dogs must learn to inhibit their bite before they are 4 months old. Normally, they would learn this from their mother, their littermates and other members of the pack. But, because we take them away from this environment before this learning is completed, we must take over the training.
Socialization Prevents Biting
By allowing your puppy to socialize with other puppies and socialized dogs they can pick up where they left off. Puppies need to roll, tumble and play with each other. When they play, they bite each other everywhere and anywhere. This is where they learn to inhibit their biting. This is where they learn to control themselves. If they are too rough or rambunctious, they will find out because of how the other dogs and puppies react and interact with them. This is something that happens naturally and it is something we cannot accomplish. It can only be learned from trial and error. There is nothing you can say or do to educate them in this realm. They must learn from their own experience.
Socialization Prevents Biting
Another major advantage of dog to dog socialization besides the fact that it will help your dog to grow up not being fearful of other dogs is that they can vent their energy in an acceptable manner. Puppies that have other puppies to play with do not need to treat you like littermates. So the amount of play biting on you and your family should dramatically decrease. Puppies that do not play with other puppies are generally much more hyperactive and destructive in the home as well.
Lack of Socialization Causes Biting
A major cause of biting is lack of socialization. Lack of socialization often results in fearful or aggressive behavior. The two major reactions a dog has to something it is afraid of are to avoid it or to act aggressive in an attempt to make it go away. This is the most common cause of children being bitten. Dogs that are not socialized with children often end up biting them. The optimum time to socialize is before the dog reaches 4 months. With large breed dogs, 4 months may be too late, simply because at this age the puppy may already be too large for most mothers of young children to feel comfortable around. For most owners, the larger the dog is, the more difficult it is to control, especially around children. If there is anything you do not want your dog to be afraid of or aggressive towards, you must begin to socialize your puppy with them before 4 months of age.
Trust and Respect Inhibits Biting
There are many other reasons your dog will bite and you will have to take an active role in teaching them. However, before you can teach your dog anything, there are two prerequisites that are essential. They are trust and respect. If your dog doesn't trust you, there is no reason why he should respect you. If your dog does not respect you, your relationship will be like two 5 year olds bossing each other around. If your dog does not trust and respect you, then when you attempt to teach your dog something, he will regard you as if he were thinking, "Who do you think you are to tell me what to do?"
Use of Reprimands and Biting
Never hit, kick or slap your dog. This is the quickest way to erode the dog's trust in you. Yes, he will still love you. Even abused dogs love their owners. A unique characteristic of dogs is their unconditional love. You don't have to do anything to acquire your dog's love. But you must do a lot to gain your dog's trust and respect. Another area where we destroy our dog's trust in us is when we scold or punish them for housesoiling mistakes and accidents. When housetraining your puppy, there is never an appropriate time to punish or reprimand. If you catch your dog in the act, just head for the towels and cleaner. You have no right to scold him, because if he is going in the wrong place, it is your fault, not his. If you find an accident after the fact, just clean it up.
Summary Tips on Biting
1. Reprimand alone will never stop biting.
2. If no respect exists, the biting will get worse. If you act like a littermate, the dog will treat you as one.
3. If trust is not there, the dog may eventually bite out of fear or lack of confidence.
4. Inconsistency sabotages training. If you let the dog bite some of the time, then biting will never be completely eliminated.
5. Don't forget follow up. The dog must understand that it is the biting that you don't like, not the dog itself. Make up afterwards, but on your terms, not the dog's.
Most owners wait until a bite just "happens to occur" before trying to deal with it and are therefore totally unprepared when it happens - and do all the wrong things, thus making the problem worse.
Dog Obedience Training Secrets to
STOP
Your Dog’s Behavior Problems!
Click Here!
Especially in play and while teething. It's up to you to teach your puppy or dog what is acceptable and what is not. Most dogs and puppies are generally loving, sweet, adorable, affectionate and wonderful 99% of the time. Only 1% of the time does something specific happen that makes the dog bite. This article will discuss the causes of biting and what you can do to prevent your dog from biting.
Dogs and Puppies Must Learn to Inhibit Biting
First of all, dogs must learn to inhibit their bite before they are 4 months old. Normally, they would learn this from their mother, their littermates and other members of the pack. But, because we take them away from this environment before this learning is completed, we must take over the training.
Socialization Prevents Biting
By allowing your puppy to socialize with other puppies and socialized dogs they can pick up where they left off. Puppies need to roll, tumble and play with each other. When they play, they bite each other everywhere and anywhere. This is where they learn to inhibit their biting. This is where they learn to control themselves. If they are too rough or rambunctious, they will find out because of how the other dogs and puppies react and interact with them. This is something that happens naturally and it is something we cannot accomplish. It can only be learned from trial and error. There is nothing you can say or do to educate them in this realm. They must learn from their own experience.
Socialization Prevents Biting
Another major advantage of dog to dog socialization besides the fact that it will help your dog to grow up not being fearful of other dogs is that they can vent their energy in an acceptable manner. Puppies that have other puppies to play with do not need to treat you like littermates. So the amount of play biting on you and your family should dramatically decrease. Puppies that do not play with other puppies are generally much more hyperactive and destructive in the home as well.
Lack of Socialization Causes Biting
A major cause of biting is lack of socialization. Lack of socialization often results in fearful or aggressive behavior. The two major reactions a dog has to something it is afraid of are to avoid it or to act aggressive in an attempt to make it go away. This is the most common cause of children being bitten. Dogs that are not socialized with children often end up biting them. The optimum time to socialize is before the dog reaches 4 months. With large breed dogs, 4 months may be too late, simply because at this age the puppy may already be too large for most mothers of young children to feel comfortable around. For most owners, the larger the dog is, the more difficult it is to control, especially around children. If there is anything you do not want your dog to be afraid of or aggressive towards, you must begin to socialize your puppy with them before 4 months of age.
Trust and Respect Inhibits Biting
There are many other reasons your dog will bite and you will have to take an active role in teaching them. However, before you can teach your dog anything, there are two prerequisites that are essential. They are trust and respect. If your dog doesn't trust you, there is no reason why he should respect you. If your dog does not respect you, your relationship will be like two 5 year olds bossing each other around. If your dog does not trust and respect you, then when you attempt to teach your dog something, he will regard you as if he were thinking, "Who do you think you are to tell me what to do?"
Use of Reprimands and Biting
Never hit, kick or slap your dog. This is the quickest way to erode the dog's trust in you. Yes, he will still love you. Even abused dogs love their owners. A unique characteristic of dogs is their unconditional love. You don't have to do anything to acquire your dog's love. But you must do a lot to gain your dog's trust and respect. Another area where we destroy our dog's trust in us is when we scold or punish them for housesoiling mistakes and accidents. When housetraining your puppy, there is never an appropriate time to punish or reprimand. If you catch your dog in the act, just head for the towels and cleaner. You have no right to scold him, because if he is going in the wrong place, it is your fault, not his. If you find an accident after the fact, just clean it up.
Summary Tips on Biting
1. Reprimand alone will never stop biting.
2. If no respect exists, the biting will get worse. If you act like a littermate, the dog will treat you as one.
3. If trust is not there, the dog may eventually bite out of fear or lack of confidence.
4. Inconsistency sabotages training. If you let the dog bite some of the time, then biting will never be completely eliminated.
5. Don't forget follow up. The dog must understand that it is the biting that you don't like, not the dog itself. Make up afterwards, but on your terms, not the dog's.
Most owners wait until a bite just "happens to occur" before trying to deal with it and are therefore totally unprepared when it happens - and do all the wrong things, thus making the problem worse.
Dog Obedience Training Secrets to
STOP
Your Dog’s Behavior Problems!
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Crate Training is one of the most efficient and effective ways to train a puppy or dog.
The single most important aspect of dog and puppy training is that you reward and praise your dog or puppy each and every time she does the right thing. For example: praise her when she chews her own toys instead of the couch or eliminates outside instead of in the house. The more time you spend with your puppy or dog, the quicker and easier it will be to train her.
The key to house training is to establish a routine that increases the chances that your dog will eliminate in the right place in your presence, so that she can be praised and rewarded; and decreases the chances that your dog will eliminate in the wrong place so that she will not develop bad habits.
It is important that you make provisions for your dog when you are not home. Until your dog is housetrained, she should not be allowed free run of your house. Otherwise, she will develop a habit of leaving piles and puddles anywhere and everywhere. Confine her to a small area such as a kitchen, bathroom or utility room that has water/stain resistant floors. Confinement is NOT crate training.
What is Crate Training?
Crate training can be an efficient and effective way to house train a dog. Dogs do not like to soil their resting/sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. Temporarily confining your dog to a small area strongly inhibits the tendency to urinate and defecate. However, there is still a far more important aspect of crate training.
If your dog does not eliminate while she is confined, then she will need to eliminate when she is released, i.e., she eliminates when you are present to reward and praise her.
Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your dog to a crate and long term confinement when you are not home. The major purpose of confinement when your are not home is to restrict mistakes to a small protected area. The purpose of crate training is quite the opposite. Short term confinement to a crate is intended to inhibit your dog from eliminating when confined, so that she will want to eliminate when released from confinement and taken to an appropriate area. Crate training also helps teach your dog to have bladder and bowel control. Instead of going whenever she feels like it, she learns to hold it and go at convenient scheduled times.
Crate training should not be abused, otherwise the problem will get drastically worse. The crate is not intended as a place to lock up the dog and forget her for extended periods of time. If your dog soils her crate because you left her there too long, the house training process will be set back several weeks, if not months.
Your dog should only be confined to a crate when you are at home. Except at night, give your dog an opportunity to relieve herself every hour. Each time you let her out, put her on leash and immediately take her outside. Once outside, give her about three to five minutes to produce. If she does not eliminate within the allotted time period, simply return her to her crate. If she does perform, then immediately reward her with praise, food treats, affection, play, an extended walk and permission to run around and play in your house for a couple of hours. For young pups, after 45 minutes to an hour, take her to her toilet area again. Never give your dog free run of your home unless you know without a doubt that her bowels and bladder are empty.
During this crate training procedure, keep a diary of when your dog eliminates. If you have her on a regular feeding schedule, she should soon adopt a corresponding elimination schedule. Once you know what time of day she usually needs to eliminate, you can begin taking her out only at those times instead of every hour. After she has eliminated, she can have free, but supervised, run of your house. About one hour before she needs to eliminate (as calculated by your diary) put her in her crate. This will prevent her from going earlier than you had planned. With your consistency and abundance of rewards and praise for eliminating outside, she will become more reliable about holding it until you take her out. Then the amount of time you confine her before her scheduled outing can be reduced, then eliminated.
Mistakes and Accidents During Training
If you ever find an accident in the house, just clean it up. Do not punish your dog. All this means is that you have given her unsupervised access to your house too soon. Until she can be trusted, don't give her unsupervised free run of your house. If mistakes and accidents occur, it is best to go back to the crate training. You need to more accurately predict when your dog needs to eliminate and she needs more time to develop bladder and bowel control.
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The key to house training is to establish a routine that increases the chances that your dog will eliminate in the right place in your presence, so that she can be praised and rewarded; and decreases the chances that your dog will eliminate in the wrong place so that she will not develop bad habits.
It is important that you make provisions for your dog when you are not home. Until your dog is housetrained, she should not be allowed free run of your house. Otherwise, she will develop a habit of leaving piles and puddles anywhere and everywhere. Confine her to a small area such as a kitchen, bathroom or utility room that has water/stain resistant floors. Confinement is NOT crate training.
What is Crate Training?
Crate training can be an efficient and effective way to house train a dog. Dogs do not like to soil their resting/sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. Temporarily confining your dog to a small area strongly inhibits the tendency to urinate and defecate. However, there is still a far more important aspect of crate training.
If your dog does not eliminate while she is confined, then she will need to eliminate when she is released, i.e., she eliminates when you are present to reward and praise her.
Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your dog to a crate and long term confinement when you are not home. The major purpose of confinement when your are not home is to restrict mistakes to a small protected area. The purpose of crate training is quite the opposite. Short term confinement to a crate is intended to inhibit your dog from eliminating when confined, so that she will want to eliminate when released from confinement and taken to an appropriate area. Crate training also helps teach your dog to have bladder and bowel control. Instead of going whenever she feels like it, she learns to hold it and go at convenient scheduled times.
Crate training should not be abused, otherwise the problem will get drastically worse. The crate is not intended as a place to lock up the dog and forget her for extended periods of time. If your dog soils her crate because you left her there too long, the house training process will be set back several weeks, if not months.
Your dog should only be confined to a crate when you are at home. Except at night, give your dog an opportunity to relieve herself every hour. Each time you let her out, put her on leash and immediately take her outside. Once outside, give her about three to five minutes to produce. If she does not eliminate within the allotted time period, simply return her to her crate. If she does perform, then immediately reward her with praise, food treats, affection, play, an extended walk and permission to run around and play in your house for a couple of hours. For young pups, after 45 minutes to an hour, take her to her toilet area again. Never give your dog free run of your home unless you know without a doubt that her bowels and bladder are empty.
During this crate training procedure, keep a diary of when your dog eliminates. If you have her on a regular feeding schedule, she should soon adopt a corresponding elimination schedule. Once you know what time of day she usually needs to eliminate, you can begin taking her out only at those times instead of every hour. After she has eliminated, she can have free, but supervised, run of your house. About one hour before she needs to eliminate (as calculated by your diary) put her in her crate. This will prevent her from going earlier than you had planned. With your consistency and abundance of rewards and praise for eliminating outside, she will become more reliable about holding it until you take her out. Then the amount of time you confine her before her scheduled outing can be reduced, then eliminated.
Mistakes and Accidents During Training
If you ever find an accident in the house, just clean it up. Do not punish your dog. All this means is that you have given her unsupervised access to your house too soon. Until she can be trusted, don't give her unsupervised free run of your house. If mistakes and accidents occur, it is best to go back to the crate training. You need to more accurately predict when your dog needs to eliminate and she needs more time to develop bladder and bowel control.
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House Training Your Puppy
What To Expect When House Training
Unless you can monitor your puppy 24 hours a day, don't expect the house training process to be completed until your puppy is at least 6 months old. It's normal for a young puppy to be a little 'input-output' machine. Since puppies are growing and developing rapidly at this stage, they eat more food, burn up more energy and seem to need to eliminate constantly! They also have not yet developed bowel and bladder control, so they can't 'hold it' as long as adult dogs.
House Training When You Are NOT Home
Confine your puppy to a small, 'puppy-proofed' room and paper the entire floor. Put his bed, toys and food/water bowls there. At first there will be no rhyme or reason to where your pup eliminates. He will go every where and any where. He will also probably play with the papers, chew on them, and drag them around his little den. Most puppies do this and you just have to live with it. Don't get upset; just accept it as life with a young puppy. The important thing is that when you get home, clean up the mess and lay down fresh papers.
Passive House Training or Paper Training
While your puppy is confined, he is developing a habit of eliminating on paper because no matter where he goes, it will be on paper. As time goes on, he will start to show a preferred place to do his business. When this place is well established and the rest of the papers remain clean all day, then gradually reduce the area that is papered. Start removing the paper that is furthest away from his chosen location. Eventually you will only need to leave a few sheets down in that area only. If he ever misses the paper, then you've reduced the area too soon. Go back to papering a larger area or even the entire room. Once your puppy is reliably going only on the papers you've left, then you can slowly and gradually move his papers to a location of your choice. Move the papers only an inch a day. If puppy misses the paper again, then you're moving too fast. Go back a few steps and start over. Don't be discouraged if your puppy seems to be making remarkable progress and then suddenly you have to return to papering the entire room. This is normal. There will always be minor set-backs. If you stick with this procedure, your puppy will be paper trained.
House Training When You ARE Home
When you are home but can't attend to your puppy, follow the same procedures described above. However, the more time you spend with your puppy, the quicker he will be house trained. Your objective is to take your puppy to his toilet area every time he needs to eliminate. This should be about once every 45 minutes; just after a play session; just after eating or drinking; and just upon waking. When he does eliminate in his toilet area, praise and reward him profusely and enthusiastically! Don't use any type of reprimand or punishment for mistakes or accidents. Your puppy is too young to understand and it can set the house training process back drastically. Don't allow your puppy freedom outside of his room unless you know absolutely for sure that his bladder and bowels are completely empty. When you do let him out, don't let him out of your sight. It is a good idea to have him on leash when he is exploring your home. He can't get into trouble if you are attached to the other end of the leash. Every 30 minutes return your pup to his toilet area. As your puppy becomes more reliable about using his toilet area and his bowel and bladder control develops, he can begin to spend more time outside his room with you in the rest of your home. Begin by giving him access to one room at a time. Let him eat, sleep and play in this room but only when he can be supervised. When you cannot supervise him, put him back in his room.
Active House Training
The most important thing you can do to make house training happen as quickly as possible is to reward and praise your puppy every time he goes in the right place. The more times he is rewarded, the quicker he will learn. Therefore it's important that you spend as much time as possible with your pup and give him regular and frequent access to his toilet area.
The Key to Successful House Training
Consistency and Patience. Never scold or punish your puppy for mistakes and accidents. The older your pup gets, the more he will be able to control his bladder and bowels. Eventually your pup will have enough control that he will be able to "hold it" for longer and longer periods of time. Let your puppy do this on his own time. When training is rushed, problems usually develop. Don't forget, most puppies are not reliably house trained until they are at least 6 months old.
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Unless you can monitor your puppy 24 hours a day, don't expect the house training process to be completed until your puppy is at least 6 months old. It's normal for a young puppy to be a little 'input-output' machine. Since puppies are growing and developing rapidly at this stage, they eat more food, burn up more energy and seem to need to eliminate constantly! They also have not yet developed bowel and bladder control, so they can't 'hold it' as long as adult dogs.
House Training When You Are NOT Home
Confine your puppy to a small, 'puppy-proofed' room and paper the entire floor. Put his bed, toys and food/water bowls there. At first there will be no rhyme or reason to where your pup eliminates. He will go every where and any where. He will also probably play with the papers, chew on them, and drag them around his little den. Most puppies do this and you just have to live with it. Don't get upset; just accept it as life with a young puppy. The important thing is that when you get home, clean up the mess and lay down fresh papers.
Passive House Training or Paper Training
While your puppy is confined, he is developing a habit of eliminating on paper because no matter where he goes, it will be on paper. As time goes on, he will start to show a preferred place to do his business. When this place is well established and the rest of the papers remain clean all day, then gradually reduce the area that is papered. Start removing the paper that is furthest away from his chosen location. Eventually you will only need to leave a few sheets down in that area only. If he ever misses the paper, then you've reduced the area too soon. Go back to papering a larger area or even the entire room. Once your puppy is reliably going only on the papers you've left, then you can slowly and gradually move his papers to a location of your choice. Move the papers only an inch a day. If puppy misses the paper again, then you're moving too fast. Go back a few steps and start over. Don't be discouraged if your puppy seems to be making remarkable progress and then suddenly you have to return to papering the entire room. This is normal. There will always be minor set-backs. If you stick with this procedure, your puppy will be paper trained.
House Training When You ARE Home
When you are home but can't attend to your puppy, follow the same procedures described above. However, the more time you spend with your puppy, the quicker he will be house trained. Your objective is to take your puppy to his toilet area every time he needs to eliminate. This should be about once every 45 minutes; just after a play session; just after eating or drinking; and just upon waking. When he does eliminate in his toilet area, praise and reward him profusely and enthusiastically! Don't use any type of reprimand or punishment for mistakes or accidents. Your puppy is too young to understand and it can set the house training process back drastically. Don't allow your puppy freedom outside of his room unless you know absolutely for sure that his bladder and bowels are completely empty. When you do let him out, don't let him out of your sight. It is a good idea to have him on leash when he is exploring your home. He can't get into trouble if you are attached to the other end of the leash. Every 30 minutes return your pup to his toilet area. As your puppy becomes more reliable about using his toilet area and his bowel and bladder control develops, he can begin to spend more time outside his room with you in the rest of your home. Begin by giving him access to one room at a time. Let him eat, sleep and play in this room but only when he can be supervised. When you cannot supervise him, put him back in his room.
Active House Training
The most important thing you can do to make house training happen as quickly as possible is to reward and praise your puppy every time he goes in the right place. The more times he is rewarded, the quicker he will learn. Therefore it's important that you spend as much time as possible with your pup and give him regular and frequent access to his toilet area.
The Key to Successful House Training
Consistency and Patience. Never scold or punish your puppy for mistakes and accidents. The older your pup gets, the more he will be able to control his bladder and bowels. Eventually your pup will have enough control that he will be able to "hold it" for longer and longer periods of time. Let your puppy do this on his own time. When training is rushed, problems usually develop. Don't forget, most puppies are not reliably house trained until they are at least 6 months old.
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Training Puppy the First Week
When your puppy comes home, it is important
to be prepared for many training opportunities ...
Puppy training basics during the first week the puppy is home is critical. It is obvious that you need certain physical items such as a dog bed or crate, food and water bowls, puppy chow, collar, leash, toys, etc. Equally as important, all family members must decide and agree on routine, responsibility and rules.
The first few days are extremely important. Enthusiasm and emotions are up. Everyone wants to feed the puppy, play with the puppy and hold the puppy. Pre-established rules are easily broken. Everyone agreed that puppy will sleep in her crate but as soon as she's home, someone melts and insists that puppy will sleep in bed. Everyone previously agreed not to let puppy jump up on them, but in the excitement, no one even notices that puppy is jumping up. No one sleeps the first night. Puppy wins and gets to sleep in bed. The next morning we find puppy has eliminated all over the bed. So the following night puppy is banned to her crate and screams all night. No one sleeps tonight either.
Grouchiness sets in; enthusiasm is down. No one wants to get up at the pre-agreed upon early morning feeding time. How are we going to housetrain puppy? How are we going to sleep with her constant whining?
Your new puppy has just been taken away from her mom and littermates. She is vulnerable and impressionable. What she needs now is security and routine. Set up a small room to be her very own special haven for the next couple of months. Paper the entire floor and put her food/water bowls and bed in one corner. Scatter her toys everywhere.
Play with her quietly and gently. Don't flood her with attention and activity. If she looks like she wants to sleep, leave her alone. Puppies need lots of sleep.
Decide who is responsible for feeding and cleaning up after her. Don't deviate from the schedule. Routine is especially important for your puppy. Don't spend all your time with her. If she is going to be alone during the day or night, she needs to start getting used to it now. If she wakes up from a nap and whines, resist the urge to run in and comfort her.
Since puppies are so impressionable, it is important to begin explaining the rules right away. Don't give her special license to get away with anything just because she is a puppy. If you allow her to have her way about certain things now, she will only be confused later when you decide to change the rules. Puppies learn very quickly with proper instruction.
Never hit your puppy or give harsh reprimands. They don't mean to misbehave - they are just doing whatever comes naturally. Instead, show your puppy what kind of behavior you want. Teach her to play with her toys. Make them fun and exciting. Let her know how happy you are and how good she is when she chews them.
Then, when you see her chewing your furniture, firmly tell her, "Off!" and immediately show her one of her own toys. Encourage her to play with and chew on it. Praise her profusely when she does so. If you don't catch her in the act, anything you do will confuse her. The only way you can instruct your puppy is to be there. If you can't be there, don't allow her to have access to places where she can get into trouble.
Schedule an appointment with your veterinarian immediately. Discuss your puppy's vaccination schedule and when she will be allowed outside. Puppies are susceptible to many canine diseases until they are fully vaccinated; so don't take your puppy outside until your veterinarian says it is OK.
Your puppy's emotional and mental health is just as important as her physical health. When your schedule your puppy's first veterinary visit, also schedule her into a puppy socialization class. She may not be able to attend yet, but reserve your place now so you don't miss out. Puppy socialization classes give your puppy an opportunity to meet a variety of people and dogs in a controlled situation.
If your puppy is to be a well-adjusted adult dog, she needs to learn how to act properly around other dogs and people. Dogs that are not socialized frequently grow up to be aggressive and excessively fearful.
Dog Obedience Training Secrets to
STOP
Your Dog’s Behavior Problems!
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to be prepared for many training opportunities ...
Puppy training basics during the first week the puppy is home is critical. It is obvious that you need certain physical items such as a dog bed or crate, food and water bowls, puppy chow, collar, leash, toys, etc. Equally as important, all family members must decide and agree on routine, responsibility and rules.
The first few days are extremely important. Enthusiasm and emotions are up. Everyone wants to feed the puppy, play with the puppy and hold the puppy. Pre-established rules are easily broken. Everyone agreed that puppy will sleep in her crate but as soon as she's home, someone melts and insists that puppy will sleep in bed. Everyone previously agreed not to let puppy jump up on them, but in the excitement, no one even notices that puppy is jumping up. No one sleeps the first night. Puppy wins and gets to sleep in bed. The next morning we find puppy has eliminated all over the bed. So the following night puppy is banned to her crate and screams all night. No one sleeps tonight either.
Grouchiness sets in; enthusiasm is down. No one wants to get up at the pre-agreed upon early morning feeding time. How are we going to housetrain puppy? How are we going to sleep with her constant whining?
Your new puppy has just been taken away from her mom and littermates. She is vulnerable and impressionable. What she needs now is security and routine. Set up a small room to be her very own special haven for the next couple of months. Paper the entire floor and put her food/water bowls and bed in one corner. Scatter her toys everywhere.
Play with her quietly and gently. Don't flood her with attention and activity. If she looks like she wants to sleep, leave her alone. Puppies need lots of sleep.
Decide who is responsible for feeding and cleaning up after her. Don't deviate from the schedule. Routine is especially important for your puppy. Don't spend all your time with her. If she is going to be alone during the day or night, she needs to start getting used to it now. If she wakes up from a nap and whines, resist the urge to run in and comfort her.
Since puppies are so impressionable, it is important to begin explaining the rules right away. Don't give her special license to get away with anything just because she is a puppy. If you allow her to have her way about certain things now, she will only be confused later when you decide to change the rules. Puppies learn very quickly with proper instruction.
Never hit your puppy or give harsh reprimands. They don't mean to misbehave - they are just doing whatever comes naturally. Instead, show your puppy what kind of behavior you want. Teach her to play with her toys. Make them fun and exciting. Let her know how happy you are and how good she is when she chews them.
Then, when you see her chewing your furniture, firmly tell her, "Off!" and immediately show her one of her own toys. Encourage her to play with and chew on it. Praise her profusely when she does so. If you don't catch her in the act, anything you do will confuse her. The only way you can instruct your puppy is to be there. If you can't be there, don't allow her to have access to places where she can get into trouble.
Schedule an appointment with your veterinarian immediately. Discuss your puppy's vaccination schedule and when she will be allowed outside. Puppies are susceptible to many canine diseases until they are fully vaccinated; so don't take your puppy outside until your veterinarian says it is OK.
Your puppy's emotional and mental health is just as important as her physical health. When your schedule your puppy's first veterinary visit, also schedule her into a puppy socialization class. She may not be able to attend yet, but reserve your place now so you don't miss out. Puppy socialization classes give your puppy an opportunity to meet a variety of people and dogs in a controlled situation.
If your puppy is to be a well-adjusted adult dog, she needs to learn how to act properly around other dogs and people. Dogs that are not socialized frequently grow up to be aggressive and excessively fearful.
Dog Obedience Training Secrets to
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Your Dog’s Behavior Problems!
Click Here!
9/9/08
Crate Training Your New Puppy
More Puppy Potty Training Tips
Jan 20, 2007
Potty training puppies and dogs with a crate gets results. Crate training is easy and saves furniture and carpets while house breaking your new puppy.
House training can be the most challenging part of owning a puppy. If your lucky you show your puppy where to “go” and he/she catches on immediately and the two of you live happily ever after. Unfortunately for most of us this never happens. House training continues to be a challenge for many new puppy owners. The best and easiest way to potty train is through crate training. Below are the steps to properly crate train your puppy.
What Is Crate Training? - Crate training is a form of house training or potty training that is very popular right now. It's safe for the puppy and it works. Basically when you are not at home, sleeping, or otherwise involved, puppy goes in a crate. Dog crates can be purchased at pet stores or on-line. Garage sales are also a good place to find dog crates. They also come in many styles, much depends on how much you're willing to spend. The style doesn't matter so much as the size.
What Size Of Crate Do I Need? – When it comes to crates size matters. The crate should only be big enough for the puppy to stand up, turn around, and lay down. No bigger. If the crate is too big then the puppy can sleep in one spot and potty in another. The idea behind crate training is - the puppy will not potty where it sleeps.
Location For Crate – The crate should be placed in an area of the house where the family spends a lot of time. A family room is a good spot. Dogs are naturally pack animals, they want to be where the pack is. Another good location would be your bedroom; that way the puppy is sleeping in the den with the rest of the pack.
Introducing The Crate – When first introducing the crate don't shove the puppy in, let the puppy make the first move to go in the crate. Place something familiar inside, a t-shirt with your smell and some favorite toys. Start by placing it's favorite food or treats inside so the puppy wants to go in for the treat, leave the crate door open at this time. Slowly start to shut the door when the puppy is inside – just for a few seconds at first and then for longer periods of time when the puppy is ready.
Make The Crate A Happy Place – When first starting crate training the crate should be made a “happy place”. The crate should not be used as a punishment. Making the crate a good thing in the puppy's mind will make it easier for you to train. The puppy won't fight to go in the crate, and once the puppy is used to the crate, it won't cry when left alone. Feeding meals in the crate is a good idea – the puppy will think food and crate go together. Make sure you take puppy outside to potty before you leave and after it eats. A special toy it only gets in the crate is also a good idea, a Kong filled with peanut butter is a good treat idea that keeps them busy. Take the special toy away when you get home; this toy is only for crate time.
Leaving The Puppy – Keep the puppy crated while you are not at home – working, running errands, etc. Also crate at night when everyone is asleep. The puppy and your carpet and furniture will be safer if the puppy is crated then if left out. Puppy's can cause a lot of damage in a short amount of time. They could get into a toxic substance, or ingest something that becomes a foreign body. A good rule is to crate until the puppy can be trusted.
How Long Is Okay To Be Left In The Crate? - Many dogs are left all day and do okay. Ideally the puppy will be let out about every 4 hours or so. Longer then that is to much, think about how small their bladder must be. When potty training take them outside as often as possible. During training you'll have to come home for lunch to let the puppy out or have a pet sitter do it for you. A puppy is a big responsibility, just like a new baby.
Whining In The Crate – The puppy is going to whine at first. This can get really annoying, especially at night. Learn this now w so you'll be prepared. The puppy may need to go potty, try this first – this is a go potty then right back in the crate and to bed trip outside, not play time. It is okay to give a treat for going potty outside though. If puppy doesn't need to potty then it just wants out of the crate. Ignore the cries and whines, if you give in now you are teaching the puppy that when it cries it gets let out of the crate. If you give in once the cries will be louder and longer next time. The key is to ignore, it will stop.
Good luck with your potty training.
References: Kansas Humane Society, Behavior lecture, Dr. Emily Weiss, Kansas Humane Society Animal Behaviorist
The copyright of the article Crate Training Your New Puppy in Pet Training is owned by Charla Dawson. Permission to republish Crate Training Your New Puppy in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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